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Article dans une revue Territoires du Vin Année : 2021

Image, marché et consommation des vins de Tokaj

Résumé

"Hungarian people like to talk about the international reputation of Tokaj wine. However, despite its genuinely illustrious past reputation, this assertion is contradicted by its weak current international market presence. Thence the wry and disillusioned formula heard in the region whereby Tokaj wine is “internationally renowned...throughout Hungary!”. In fact, until the First World War, Tokaj wine, especially the Aszù, a great sweet wine, rivalled champagne as a prestigious luxury wine consumed by the European elites. It was a series of dramatic events (world wars, collectivisation…) that led to its disappearance not only from the market for fine wines, but also as a reference and consumption habits for Western European consumers. After the economic transition of the 1990s and despite undeniable success in restructuring and upscaling its wine production, Tokaj is struggling to rebuild its image and attractiveness. True, the Aszù, fine dessert and tasting wine has fallen victim to the general move away from sweet wines, compounded by the fact that it doesn’t embody the same festive and celebratory dimension as champagne. At present it is only drunk on family occasions or when connoisseurs get together. Moreover, its high selling price is not conducive to wide consumption by a public increasingly on the lookout for wines with different values (conviviality, sharing, simplicity, etc.) and especially affordable, in cellars or in a restaurant. Faced with this new economic and social reality and international competition, Tokaj producers need to refocus their strategy in order to revive the market and restore the reputation of these wine and of the region. This adaptation takes several ways : - First, in terms of production, with the simplification and diversification of the wines range: the designation “Aszù” is now reserved for wines with the highest sugar level, the others are classified as “late harvest”, more easily understandable everywhere in the world; Increase in single-variety dry white wines, which are more in line with current consumer tastes as well as being cheaper; Emergence of sparkling wines, something that is totally new for Tokaj. - From a communication perspective then, with the construction of a new image that resonates with international marketing codes: modernization of labels; creation of "fashionable" brands that speak to younger consumers, etc. But will all this be enough to (re)establish Tokaj among the world’s great wines? This is the question we will attempt to answer in this conclusion. This presentation will deal with information gathered from surveys and empirical studies over the past twenty years on the ground among those involved in wine production, and from a specific study of changes in Tokaj wines market."
"Le vignoble de Tokaj jouit depuis le XVIIIe siècle d’une réputation internationale grâce à l’un des plus grands vins liquoreux, le célèbre Aszú. Cette notoriété a pourtant été mise à mal tout au long du XXe siècle où se sont succédés des épisodes dramatiques, qui ont mené à son effacement, non seulement du marché des vins fins, mais aussi des références et habitudes de consommation, du moins en Europe de l’Ouest. Après la transition économique des années 1990 et malgré une incontestable réussite dans la restructuration de la production et dans la remontée en gamme de ses vins, l’image et l’attractivité du vin de Tokaj peinent pourtant à se reconstruire. L’Aszù subit en effet les conséquences de la désaffection générale pour les vins liquoreux et la concurrence d’autres vins plus abordables. Devant cette nouvelle donne économique et sociale et face à la concurrence internationale, les producteurs de Tokaj doivent donc réorienter leurs stratégies afin de relancer le marché et restaurer l’image et la réputation du vin et de l’appellation." (source éditeur)
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Dates et versions

halshs-03509745, version 1 (04-01-2022)

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Paternité - CC BY 4.0

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  • HAL Id : halshs-03509745 , version 1

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Aline Brochot. Image, marché et consommation des vins de Tokaj. Territoires du Vin, 2021, 13. ⟨halshs-03509745⟩
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Dernière date de mise à jour le 21/04/2024
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